Beyond Nerja the road climbs inland, running high above the coast until it surfaces at THE HERRADURA, a fishing village-resort suburb of Almuñecar, which is a good place to stop off and swim, and which also has three seafront summer campsites. The city itself is marred by a number of towering holiday apartments, though if you've been unable to find a room in Nerja you might want to stay here for a night. Rocky beaches are rather cramped and have grey sand, but the esplanade behind them, with palm-roofed bars (many offering free tapas) and restaurants, is fun, and the old town attractive.